In the garment industry, many people think production starts when the fabric is cut and sewing machines begin running. But in reality, the journey starts much earlier. Before production begins, a merchandiser has to prepare everything carefully so that there are no delays, mistakes, or quality issues.

The role of an apparel merchandiser in pre-production in a garment factory is one of the most important parts of the whole supply chain. They act as a link between buyer, supplier, and factory departments. Their job is to make sure all requirements are clear, materials are ready, approvals are done, and production can start smoothly.

Let’s go step by step through the tasks a merchandiser must complete after receiving an order sheet.

Step 1: Making a Checklist

After receiving the order sheet, the very first job of a merchandiser is to prepare a detailed checklist. This checklist is like a blueprint that clearly shows what is required for that specific order.

A merchandiser notes down:

• Types of fabrics needed (main fabric, lining fabric, rib, pocketing, etc.)
• Trims required (labels, buttons, zippers, drawcords, hooks, velcro, snaps, eyelets, etc.)
• Accessories (hangtags, polybags, cartons, stickers, tape, tissue paper)
• Sewing thread details (different colors, counts, quantities depending on styles)
• Printing or embroidery requirement (screen print, heat transfer, sublimation, embroidery placement, emboss, foil print, etc.)
• Wash requirement (enzyme wash, stone wash, bleach, garment dye)
• Special instructions from buyer (packing method, folding style, barcode stickers, size ratio, etc.)

👉 This checklist becomes the master guide for the entire pre-production process.
Without it, a merchandiser may miss small but critical details, which can later cause production delays or even buyer complaints.

Step 2: Preparing a Pre-Cost Sheet

The merchandiser makes a pre-cost sheet to calculate the estimated cost of fabric, trims, CM, and overhead. This gives a clear idea if the order is profitable and whether the factory can accept the buyer’s price.

Step 3: Time and Action (TNA) Calendar

The merchandiser creates a TNA calendar which shows deadlines for every stage: lab dip approval, fabric in-house date, sample submission, bulk cutting, sewing, finishing, and shipment.

TNA works as a timeline for both merchandiser and production team.

Step 4: Lab Dip Program

Color approval is one of the most sensitive parts of garment production. The merchandiser starts the lab dip program where small swatches of dyed fabric are sent to the buyer for shade approval.

• If the factory sources fabric from a supplier: merchandiser manages lab dip and fabric booking directly.
• If the factory produces its own fabric: merchandiser coordinates with the fabric department for knitting, dyeing, and yarn booking. Sometimes, merchandisers even book yarn directly with spinning mills.

Step 5: Fabric Booking

Once lab dips are approved, the merchandiser confirms fabric booking.

• In buying-fabric factories: merchandiser directly handles fabric sourcing and in-house delivery.
• In yarn-buying factories: merchandiser books yarn, hands it over to fabric department, and follows up with knitting/dyeing schedule.

This is one of the most critical tasks, as late fabric delivery can delay the entire production.

Step 6: Trims and Accessories Booking

The merchandiser then books trims and accessories such as zippers, buttons, labels, hangtags, care labels, threads, and polybags.

Since trims approval often takes time, booking must be done early to keep production on track.

Step 7: Fitting Sample Submission and Approval

The fit sample ensures the garment shape, measurement, and construction are correct. Merchandiser submits the fit sample to the buyer and gets approval before moving to PPS submission and bulk.

Without a fitting approval, PPS submission and bulk production cannot proceed.

Step 8: Print / Embroidery / Allover Print Development

If the style has print, embroidery, embossing, or allover print (AOP), merchandiser develops strike-offs or swatches and sends them to buyer for approval. This must be approved before PPS submission.

This step is very important because any error in print size, placement, or color can cause rejection of bulk garments.

Step 9: Approval of Trims and Accessories

Sometimes, buyers do not accept trims in first submission. The merchandiser follows up, resubmits, and ensures all trims and accessories are approved before PPS submission and bulk production.

Step 10: Sample Fabric Development

After the lab dip approval, the merchandiser arranges sample fabric for preparing the pre-production sample (PPS).

It should always be noted that:

• The sample fabric color must match the approved lab dip shade.
• The sample fabric quality must be similar to the buyer-approved bulk fabric quality.

Even though this sample fabric is mainly used for making approval samples, it plays a very important role in ensuring that the PPS reflects the correct color, quality, and standard expected by the buyer.

Step 11: Pre-Production Sample (PPS) Submission

Once all approvals (lab dip, trims, accessories, fit sample, print/embroidery) are done, merchandiser prepares a pre-production sample (PPS).

The PPS is the final reference for bulk production. It must match buyer’s requirements 100%.

Step 12: Bulk Fabric, Trims, and Accessories In-House

Before bulk production starts, the merchandiser ensures all fabric, trims, and accessories are in-house. Without this, cutting and sewing cannot begin.

Step 13: Pre-Production (PP) Meeting

Merchandiser arranges a PP Meeting with all departments — fabric, cutting, sewing, quality, finishing. In this meeting, he explains the buyer’s requirements, approved samples, and special instructions.

This ensures everyone is aligned before bulk starts.

Step 14: Handing Over Production File

Finally, the merchandiser prepares a production file which includes:

• Approved samples
• Bulk fabric approval copy
• Trims and Accessories approval copy
• Buyer comments
• TNA calendar
• Test reports
• Packing instructions

This file is handed over to all departments so production can begin confidently.

Why These Pre-Production Steps Matter

If any of the above steps are skipped or delayed, the entire order can face problems like:

• Production delays
• Quality issues
• Rejection from buyer
• Financial losses

That’s why merchandisers are called the “pilot of the order.” They guide the order from the very first instruction until the first sewing machine starts.

Conclusion

The role of an apparel merchandiser in pre-production in garment factory is much more than just paperwork. From preparing a detailed checklist to finalizing PPS, every step is critical. They manage communication with buyers, book fabrics and trims, arrange sample approvals, and ensure everything is ready before bulk production starts.

In short, without the hard work of a merchandiser during pre-production, garment factories cannot deliver quality products on time. The merchandiser is truly the backbone of the apparel industry’s success.