Fabric GSM vs Yarn Count: A Beginner’s Guide for Merchandisers.

If you are starting your career as a merchandiser, you might often hear terms like GSM and yarn count. At first, they may sound confusing, but these two are the heart of fabric understanding. Without knowing GSM and yarn count, it’s impossible to plan garments, negotiate with buyers, or even calculate costing properly.

In this beginner’s guide, I will explain what GSM is, what yarn count means, and how they are related. By the end, you’ll have a clear and practical idea of how to use GSM and yarn count in your merchandising journey.

What is fabric GSM?

GSM stands for Grams per Square Meter. It means how much one square meter of fabric weighs.

👉 Think of it this way:

A fabric with low GSM feels light, thin, and airy.
A fabric with high GSM feels heavy, dense, and warm.

Examples:

120 GSM: Lightweight Tank-Top fabric.
160–180 GSM: Standard T-Shirt shirts.
180-220 GSM: Standard Polo Shirt.
250–300 GSM: Hoodies and winterwear.

So, GSM directly tells us the weight and thickness of the fabric. For a merchandiser, this is very important when buyers mention their fabric requirements.

What is yarn count?

Yarn count is a number that shows the thinner or thickness of yarn.

👉 Simply put:

Higher yarn count = finer and thinner yarn
Lower yarn count = thicker yarn

For example:

28s count yarn = thin, fine yarn used for soft fabrics.
20s count yarn = thicker yarn, often used in heavy fabrics.

So, when you hear “single jersey 160 GSM with 28s yarn,” it means the fabric is lightweight and made with fine yarn.

Yarn Count Converter by GSM

Fabric GSM vs Yarn Count: The real relationship

Here comes the most important part: How GSM and yarn count connect with each other.

If you use thinner yarn (higher count) → the fabric will feel lighter, softer, and its GSM will usually be lower.
If you use thicker yarn (lower count) → the fabric will feel heavier, coarser, and its GSM will usually be higher.

But remember: GSM does not depend only on yarn count. Fabric construction, stitch length, and knitting/weaving style also affect GSM.

Practical examples for beginner merchandisers

Here are some real-life examples that merchandisers often deal with:

T-shirt (Single Jersey, 160 GSM)
- Yarn Count: 26s or 28s
- Why? Fine yarn is required to make the T-shirt soft and breathable.
Polo Shirt (Pique, 220 GSM)
- Yarn Count: 24s or 26s
- Why? Slightly thicker yarn makes the fabric durable and gives the polo its structure.
Sweatshirt / Hoodie (Fleece, 300 GSM)
- Yarn Count: 20s or 24s
- Why? Thicker yarn creates a heavy, warm fabric suitable for winter wear.

👉 This way, merchandisers can link GSM and yarn count practically while sourcing fabric.

Why merchandisers must learn GSM and yarn count

As a beginner merchandiser, you may ask: “Why do I really need to know this?”

Here’s why:

Costing: GSM directly affects fabric consumption and garment weight. Wrong GSM means wrong costing.
Buyer communication: Buyers always mention GSM and yarn count in tech packs. If you don’t understand them, you’ll miss the core requirement.
Quality control: Sometimes fabrics come with wrong GSM. Merchandisers must check it before bulk production.
Sourcing & Negotiation: When talking to mills, you can demand the right yarn count for the required GSM.

So, mastering GSM and yarn count is not just theory—it’s a real survival skill for merchandi

How to measure GSM practically

If you’re new in merchandising, don’t worry—measuring GSM is very simple.

Cut a fabric swatch of 10cm × 10cm.
Weigh it in grams on a digital scale.
Multiply by 100 → This gives you the GSM.

👉 Example:

Swatch size: 10cm × 10cm (0.01 m²)
Weight: 1.6 grams
GSM = 1.6 × 100 = 160 GSM

This simple method can save you from big mistakes during sourcing.

Common mistakes beginners make

Thinking GSM = Thickness Only
- Wrong. GSM is about weight, not just thickness.
Ignoring Yarn Count
- A 160 GSM fabric can be made from 26s, 28s, or 30s yarn—but the feel and quality will change.
Not Checking GSM Before Bulk
- Always check a swatch before confirming bulk order. Even a 10 GSM difference can affect garment fitting and costing.

Tips for beginner merchandisers

Always note both GSM and yarn count in your tech pack.
Create a GSM vs Yarn Count reference chart for your own use.
Learn by touching and feeling fabrics—your hands are the best GSM tester over time.
Keep samples of different GSM fabrics as your learning library.

Conclusion

Understanding Fabric GSM vs Yarn Count is like learning the alphabet of apparel merchandising. Without it, no merchandiser can survive in the industry.

GSM tells you the weight of the fabric.
Yarn count tells you the fineness or thickness of the yarn.
Together, they define the quality, feel, and purpose of the fabric.

As a beginner merchandiser, if you master this relationship, you’ll not only impress buyers and suppliers but also avoid costly mistakes in production.

👉 So next time someone asks you, “What GSM fabric needs what yarn count?”—you’ll be ready with a confident, practical answer.

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